Brocard Champagne Contrée Noire Extra Brut 2009
Côte des Bar is Champagne’s southernmost subregion and was once considered part of Burgundy, a fact that informs its winemaking and gastronomic culture to this day. Thibaud Brocard is the fifth-generation to work his family’s estate of 6.5 hectares divided among 11 unique parcels, but otherwise he eschews tradition by making mostly single varietal vintage champagnes that get extensive lees aging and minimal sulfites, while also converting the estate to organic viticulture since 2012. The estate lies mostly on limestone soils.
Contrée Noire is their blanc de noirs style made from 100% Pinot Noir from the Frillon Vineyard, planted in 1962. Fermentation is in stainless steel followed by secondary fermentation in the bottle and 5 years aging on the lees. Complexly layered palate with yellow apple and mushroom, a hint of red fruit, and toasty brioche, finishing with citrusy acidity.